Each month Snookangler.com will feature a helpful article aimed at improving your odds on the water. A quick preview of upcoming articles can be found at the bottom of this page.

October 2001

Of all the lures available to the saltwater angler, plastic "softbaits" may be the most versatile. Different styles such as the Slug-go, Shadow, Fin-S, Twitchin' Shad, etc. have caught everything from bluefish and stripers to dolphin, snook and redfish.

Why are these lures so productive? There are a number of reasons. They have a natural, pliable feel which causes fish to hold on longer when they strike, often leading to better hookups. They're available in many realistic colors, textures and sizes, allowing anglers to match the local forage. They can be fished both high and low in the water column, meaning you can customize a single lure to catch fish in a variety of situations. Softbaits have a natural, flowing action that makes them perhaps the most realistic-looking lures in existence. They're relatively rugged, they can be made almost perfectly weedless (so they can be cast deep into sticky cover), and they have slow sink rate, meaning they can be kept in the strike zone for a long period of time. In addition, they feature an enticing wiggle as they sink, often eliciting strikes as they free fall. And - my favorite benefit - they can be rigged weedless for fishing cover that would result in hang-ups with most conventional lures.

In short, they afford the serious snook angler with a host of options.

Shallow water

There are many ways to rig and fish these unique lures. The most popular is to cast one without a weight into or around structure (mangrove shorelines, oyster beds, docks, downed trees and the like) and to retrieve it at or just under the surface. It's a highly effective tactic that often produces fierce strikes, capitalizing on the fact that snook are ambush predators that prefer cover. In fact, casting mangrove shorelines with one of these imposters is a favorite tactic of many snook vets, as snook tend to find a well-rigged, well-fished softbait almost irresistible. The two best methods for fishing shorelines are somewhat basic: 1) On a lower tide, cruise parallel to the shoreline trying to spot fish. If you see one, lead it by a few feet and work the softbait enticingly as it approaches. When a fish strikes, wait a moment before swinging the rodtip up hard to drive the hook home. 2) On deeper stages of the tide, practice flicking the lure down and then to the side, skipping it along the surface so that it spins and tumbles under overhanging branches. This technique may sound difficult, but it can be mastered with practice. It's worth the effort, since snook chase bait as far up into nooks and crannies as possible. (Note: I will be addressing this technique in more detail in an upcoming article).

Fishing grass flats with these lures can also be effective. I usually switch to a smaller version in this situation, especially if the water is relatively clear. Though I'm not as particular about color as some folks, I do prefer lighter versions on the flats, in general. Like sight fishing along shorelines, your best bet is to look for laid up or cruising fish, the latter often giving themselves away by pushing big wakes or showering baitfish as they move and feed. Lead them with your cast and work the lure in front of their apparent path. I seldom use a weight in this situation, as snook in shallow water (1-3 feet) will have little trouble spotting and tracking a lure, and - again - unweighted softbaits just have a more natural appearance. Brackish water snook, such as those found in the hundreds of creeks far down in the Florida Everglades, are suckers for weedless softbaits. Why? I can only guess that snook which are found that far back in the sticks often come across freshwater critters that roughly resemble a softbait, such as snakes, frogs, crawdads and worms. It's a fact that softbaits were first created for use in fresh water for largemouth bass, so it's little surprise that they often account for both bass and snook in these brackish creeks.

Intermediate depths

Softbaits can also be effective in intermediate depths - say, between three and six feet. Snook can often be found in this depth when stacked up along passes in the summer, or in residential canals or along deeper shorelines throughout the year. The slow sink rate of most softbaits would render them ineffective in such spots, but by adding a simple 1/4 to 1/2 ounce worm weight (bullet weight), softbaits can be instantly transformed into terrific sub-surface lures. As mentioned, weighted softbaits lose some of their natural action, but they still feature a seductive movement. They should be cast toward a productive spot and allowed to sink, then - after they hit bottom - cranked in with a steady, stop-and-go retrieve, much as you'd fish a jig. Most softbaits wiggle as they sink, and they're often hit as they fall. It's important to keep a much slack out of your line as possible as the lure sinks, and to stay alert for a quick jerk or even a subtle "tick" in the line that might signal a hit. As an alternative to letting the lure sink, you can cast it out and retrieve it so that it "swims" along in the water column, resembling a baitfish such as a pilchard or finger mullet. This is especially effective in areas where snook are feeding on large bait schools.

Deep water

In the summer months snook can often be found in the passes, some of which feature deep, moving water that can be tough to fish. For instance, jigs get stuck on rocks, swimming plugs move along too quickly in the current, and topwater plugs are ignored by fish pressed to the bottom. Enter the heavily weighted softbait, which can be fished deep by adding as heavy a weight as required (3/4 to 1 ounce being the norm) and rigged weedless to avoid the snags present in most productive passes. Heavily weighted softbaits retaina seductive action, even in a heavy tidal flow. My buddies and I've caught some huge snook in deep passes using weighted softbaits, occasionally outfishing live bait fisherman two to one. And, as a testament to their versatility, a buddy of mine recently caught one big striped bass after another in 15 feet of water off Cape Cod using a weighted softbait that is manufactured here in Florida for snook and redfish.

Weighted softbaits are effective in other deep water applications, as well. At certain times of year, big snook congregate on wrecks off of Florida's West coast, in water as deep as 60 feet. Though live bait catches most of these snook, a guide friend of mine often catches them on weighted softbaits. And in the wintertime, when snook look lay in the deeper, dredged water in residential canals, weighted softbaits can produce snook when nothing else will. Cast them toward the docks, and then bump them slowly along the bottom, pausing a few seconds at a time between hops.

Tackle

Most softbait anglers prefer to use spinning gear, as they can pitch these relatively light lures farther and with more accuracy than they could with a baitcasting outfit. Spinning outfits also allow anglers to skip baits under overhanging obstacles, a trick that - when tried with a baitcaster - can lead to some serious backlashes. A medium-to-heavy action rod is necessary, primarily for the backbone required to turn snook away from heavy cover. Naturally, longer, whippier rods are OK if you'll be fishing open water. Line in the 8 to 14 lb. class is about right, with the rule of thumb being "the heavier the cover, the heavier the line."

The column at the right provides details for rigging a softbait so that it's weedless. Any number of hooks can be used with softbaits, but I've found that larger, wide gap hooks are easier to rig and result in better hookups. I like to use Owner 3/0 worm hooks with Cutting Edge points. When I use weights with my softbaits (which ain't often) I prefer bullet weights over egg weights as they tend to be snag-free. As a rule of thumb, try to match your softbaits with hooks that - even when rigged weedless - can easily puncture and exit the lure's body when pressure is applied. Hooks that are too small will not extend far enough away from the lure's body to find purchase in a snook's tough mouth, resulting in some frustrating missed strikes.

Softbaits belong in the tackle box of every serious snook angler. Their action and versatility are top notch, as are the results they produce. They're a great lure for novice fisherman, as their action is built-in, and their forgiving (read: weedless) nature can reduce hangups and lost lures. If you're a died-in-the wool jig or plug fisherman who has just never gotten around to trying a softbait, give one a try. I'd bet my skiff that you'll change your mind.

Softbait Tips & Tricks:

• If you're using solid softbaits that don't feature a hollow section, use a knife to cut a three or four inch line along the bottom of each lure to create a pocket where the hook can be hidden. This makes them easier to rig and leads to more reliable hooksets.

• Don't use a weight when fishing shallow water or close to structure. Softbaits have a much better action when not pulled down by a weight.

• Snook will often inhale softbaits as they sink. Be sure to keep a tight line so you can feel the quick "tick" that if often the only sign that your bait has been eaten.

• Snook tend to "chew" a sofbait for a second or two after it hits, so wait a moment before setting the hook after a strike

• Cut a section off the front of some softbaits, leaving a flat surface. This can often resulting in a more erratic, darting action than the stock lure.

• Try squeezing a small splitshot onto the shank of a Texas-rigged softbait. The added weight keeps the belly of the lure down, and stops the lure from spinning.

• In murky water, use a darker color such as root beer. In bright, clear water, use a lighter color such as white or chartreuse.

• In shallow water where snook are feeding on top, skip your softbait across the surface like a fleeing baitfish. Snook will often strike at a skipping bait instinctively.

• To get your softbaits to sink a bit deeper, simply use a medium-sized swivel to connect your main line to your leader line. This causes your line to sink quickly, breaking the water tension and pulling the nose of your lure down. An added bonus: it can greatly reduce the line twist commonly associated with softbaits and jigs.

• On cold days when snook are sluggish and in deeper holes, attach a sliding weight to the front of your softbait (1/4 to 1/2 oz is usually good) and fish it like a jig, slowly twitching it along the bottom.

• On higher stages of the tide, snook can often be heard busting bait far back under the mangroves where most lures can't reach them. With practice, you can learn how to skip softbaits so they tumble and roll under overhanging branches and back into the places where snook hide.

Good luck on the water.

upcoming articles...

Dance a Little Jig - Don't overlook the most underrated lure in the business. (November, 2001)

Baitfishing Basics - Live bait by the numbers. (December, 2001)

Shallow Water Sermon - How to effectively stalk snook in skinny water. (January, 2002)

Out in the Cold - How to find and catch snook when the barometer drops. (February, 2002)

Backwater "Bombing" - A time-honored tactic that separates the men from the boys. (March, 2002)

Skip Your Way to Snook - Learn a technique that will help you reach fish on higher stages of the tide. (April 2002)

On the Fly - Try the ultimate: stalking and catching snook on your own flies. (May 2002)

archived articles...

Terrific Topwater Tactics - Ten proven ways to get more out of your topwater plugs. (July, 2001)

Sweet Summertime - The hottest months make for the hottest fishing. (August, 2001)

Night-time is the Right Time- Stealthy snooking under moonlight. (September, 2001)

H

Sink the bent section into the nose, then twist the hook so the point faces the body of the lure.

While depressing the top of the lure where shown, push the hook point into the lure cavity and through the back of the lure.

Make slight adjustments to make sure that the lure lies perfectly straight, and that the hook point lies flush on the back of the lure.

Note: The process detailed above works best on softbaits that feature a hollow body cavity, but will work on a variety of soft-bodied lures with other styles of hooks. The softbait pictured above is a Charlie's Twitchin' Shad, my personal favorite. It features a wonderful action, a hollow body which hides hooks better and makes for more solid hooksets, a realistic look and feel and enough heft to pitch it into mangroves without a weight. It fishes great as shown, with a smooth, gliding action and swimming tail that looks very realistic. It can also be modified; the back section of the tail can be clipped off to give the lure a slicing, erratic action. When fishing shallow water or mangroves, a weight is not required. However, when fishing with a plug rod or in deeper water, a sliding worm weight placed just above the hook eye can make the lure easier to cast and get it down where the fish are. Charlie's worms are included in the Snookangler.com Backcountry Kit.