Each month Snookangler.com will feature a helpful article aimed at improving your odds on the water. A quick preview of upcoming articles can be found at the bottom of this page.

November 2001

Jigs aren't flashy. They aren't new and exciting. They don't require special skills, and most of them aren't all that attractive. They don't lead to dramatic topwater strikes, they aren't glamorous, and throwing one all day can get a little monotonous. So...why would anyone fish a jig? Simple: since the dawn of fishing as a sport, no artificial lure has accounted for more fish than the plain old jig. That applies to all gamefish, including the snook. Point is, if you plan to catch snook with consistency, you'd best have a special section in your tackle box reserved for jigs. I can personally attest to their deadly action. The three biggest snook I've ever caught - all well over 40 inches - all came on jigs fished in deep, moving water.

Choices, Choices, Choices

So, what's the best type of jig to use for snook? Well, that's a simple question without a simple answer. They are available in a dizzying array of styles, colors, sizes, weights and textures. The basic jig features a weighted head (usually made of metal or lead) molded to a hook and adorned with some type of body material, usually either hair (bucktail or synthetic) or a plastic body that mimics everything from shrimp to crabs to small baitfish. Jig heads come in many sizes, and each style lends the lure a different action when retrieved. Most quality bucktail jigs feature heads that are roughly teardrop-shaped, and feature thread wraps just behind the head that hold the hair on the lure. Most plastic body jigs feature bullet-shaped head that is flat toward the back, allowing the plastic bodies to slide flush with the head for a realistic appearance and streamlined design. These two styles are the most popular by far, though different jig head designs - from round heads to lima bean-shaped heads - can also be productive. And one other design is worth noting since it seems to be especially effective on snook in deeper water. This venerable jig features a long, cone shaped head that roughly resembles a slightly flattened rifle cartridge, and it's ideal for fishing deeper water where it can be used to resemble larger baitfish with its sweeping, gliding action. The best known among this style of jig is called the Red Tailed Hawk, and it has proven to be devastating on big summertime snook. So...which jig should YOU use? Well, weight is a more important factor than shape, as is the area where you'll be fishing.

A Weighty Issue

Picking a jig to fit your intended fishing spot ain't rocket science. Common sense dictates that you'll use a lighter jig in shallow water, for a number of reasons. If you're fishing the flats, you'll want to pick a jig that will allow you to make long casts to spooky fish across wide expanses of shallow water. Your natural inclination may be to use a heavier lure to cover that distance, but the wiser move is to use lighter spinning tackle (in the six to 10 lb. class) and a lighter jig (1/4 or 3/8 ounce is usually the best bet). Lighter jigs require lighter shock leader so that they maintain their action, but that's not a big concern since flats-bound fish aren't likely to break you off on a hard object. If you'll be fishing along shorelines, a 3/8 ounce jig is about right. Why? Because when you fish shorelines, you'll need to use some fairly stout tackle to horse snook away from the trees and roots once hooked. That heavier tackle (spinning or baitcasting tackle in the 10-14 lb. class is the norm) requires heavier leaders, and makes it tougher to cast real light jigs. The 3/8 ounce size allows you to cast with accuracy yet lands without too much commotion. Heavier jigs - from 1/2 ounce and up to three ounces or so - are designed exclusively for use in deep and/or fast moving water. Naturally, these jigs require stout tackle in the 12-20 lb. range, and they are most often used in the summer months when snook congregate in large numbers in passes to breed.

How and When

So...how's the best way to use a jig? Let's take a look at some of the more common snook fishing scenarios:

Flats/shallows: Well, when fishing the flats, the best way top fish a light jig is to try and sight fish. Look for cruising wakes, fins on the surface or fleeing baitfish, and try to get the jig ahead of the fish's apparent path. Work jigs on the flats with small, quick hops, mimicking the type of critters (craps, shrimp) that frequent that habitat. If you can't see fish, make long, arching casts and hop the jig back to the boat, pausing a second or so between each rod pump. The deeper the water, the higher the "hop." Of course, some flats are deeper than others, so if the water gets over three feet or so you may want to switch to a heavier jig. If you see baitfish in abundance, try retrieving your jig more quickly to keep it "swimming" in the water column, more accurately depicting a baitfish. This is primarily daytime fishing, though some folks do well at night on a full moon when fish can be seen and cast to.

Shorelines/structure: When fishing shorelines or oyster bars on lower tide stages, stay back and cast to the deeper water 5-15 yards off the structure. When fishing shorelines on deeper stages of the tide, it's important to get your jig as far back into the "sticks" as you can, even if it means getting hung up from time to time. During higher tides, snook chase baitfish far back under overhanging branches, and they won't see your jig unless it gets back where they're hiding. Longtime snook anglers can be identified by their ability to toss jigs with great accuracy into even the tightest of holes. The best among them are practically magicians, seemingly directing their offerings with an unseen hand. They also cover a lot of water, casting and retrieving at a brisk, steady rate. And they seldom work the lure all the way back to the boat, realizing that most (though not all) strikes will come close to the shoreline. Because of the accuracy required, this is strictly daytime fishing.

Deep water/passes: When fishing deep and/or moving water, cast uptide and retrieve the jig as it moves down with the flow. Fighting a strong current not only ruins the action of your jig, it also creates an unrealistic profile: most small baitfish aren't strong enough to fight a strong current for long, and they prefer to go with the flow, not against it. Cast your jig out and let it sink all the way to the bottom. Once your line goes slack, retrieve it with long, steady upward or sideways pumps of the rod, creating a long, gliding action that mimics a large baitfish such as a mullet or ladyfish. If that doesn't draw strikes, try bouncing the jig off of the bottom by using quicker upward strokes of the rod. And watch your slack line between pumps - snook often hit jigs as they fall, and the only sign that you've had a strike will be a quick jerk in the line. If you see that - or feel a sudden tap - crank in your slack and set the hook hard. When fishing a very strong tide, it's best to look for breaks in the current where snook can hide without fighting the flow - be that a break in a bank, a submerged tree or an underwater bar. As the tide slows, snook will move out into the open, so your casts can be a bit more random in nature. The best tie to fish deep water such as youÕll find in cuts and passes) is after dark. Bigger snook tend to feed at night, and they're suckers for a lively jig.

So yes, the jig is a bit boring in design, and frankly, it can be a bit monotonous to use. But there's nothing boring about big snook, and this venerable lure has accounted for more big linesiders than all other lures put together. Put one to use sometime soon.

Good luck on the water.

Note: In my opinion, there is no substitute for natural bucktail. There are some great synthetic hair jigs on the market now, and they certainly catch fish. And I reall y like some of the plastic tail jigs, especially the DOA TerrorEYZ jigs. And I'll admit that the plastic and synthetic brands are also more durable than bucktail, doing a better job of standing up to tough mouths, and repeated bouncing off hard bottom. But a lure with great action catches more fish, and there is simply no comparing the action provided by natural bucktail to that of the stiffer and less translucent synthetic hair or stiff plastic tails. When retrieved, the bucktail jigs flow and "puff", looking much more natural and leading to instinctive reactions in wary fish. I won't complain if you hand me a synthetic or plastic jig, because they can sure catch fish. But I'll grin like a drunk fool if you hand me some new, white bucktail jigs in a snook fishing hotspot. There's something appealing about catching snook on the same lures my grandad used. Call me old school.

upcoming articles...

Baitfishing Basics - Live bait by the numbers. (December, 2001)

Fly By Night - Feathers, fur and full moon fun. (January 2002)

Out in the Cold - How to find and catch snook when the barometer drops. (February 2002)

Backwater Bombing - A time-honored tactic that separates the men from the boys. (March 2002)

Skip Your Way to Snook - Learn a technique that will help you reach fish on higher stages of the tide. (April 2002)

Shoreline Flyrodding - Nothing beats stalking and catching snook on a flyrod. (May 2002)

The Right Skiff - How to choose a flats' boat that's right for you. (June 2002)

Shallow Water Sermon - How to effectively stalk snook in skinny water. (July 2002)

archived articles...

Terrific Topwater Tactics - Ten proven ways to get more out of your topwater plugs. (July, 2001)

Sweet Summertime -The hottest months make for the hottest fishing. (August, 2001)

Night-time is the Right Time - Stealthy snooking under moonlight. (September, 2001)

The Hard facts on Softbaits - How to get the most out of these weedless wonders. (October, 2001)

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Jig Types

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