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Each month Snookangler.com will feature a helpful article aimed at improving your odds on the water. We'll make every effort to write articles that are of help to the novice angler, but that also feature content of interest to the seasoned snooker. A quick preview of upcoming articles can be found at the bottom of this page. March 2002
Use Plugs to Catch Snook Along Florida's Famed Mangrove Shorelines.
There are many methods of catching snook. Finding and cast-netting bait is an acquired skill, as is using bait effectively. Jig fishing requires patience and an acquired feel, and accounts for a lot of fish. Reading the wakes and disturbances on an open flat is a thrill all its own, and fly fishing is a virtual art form practiced by an accomplished minority. But among longtime snookers, one method of angling has long separated the men from the boys: Casting plugs along mangrove shorelines. This tactic is almost as old as the sport itself, and Florida's rich angling history is replete with accounts of anglers plying virgin waters, tossing broomstick plugs tied to bulky reels along shorelines teeming with big snook. Today, streamlined baitcasting reels with multiple ball bearings and a host of fancy lures offer the angler a myriad of options, but one constant remains: the dexterity and accuracy required to throw plugs bristling with treble hooks among the maze of mangrove branches and roots where snook hide. It's a skill only acquired through persistence, patience and a deep-rooted love for the sport. And in my opinion, it is - and always will be - the classic way to catch snook.
Where to plug-fish Backwater snook can be caught year round, depending on weather cycles. The colder it gets, the further they tend to push into the backcountry. Most plug fishermen prefer the bottom stage of the tide, with water on its way up. From this tidal stage all the way up to an hour or two before high tide, anglers can flick their plugs under overhanging mangrove branches and back into the alleys and troughs where snook cruise and root out bait. On the high stage of the tide, these nooks and crannies are often inaccessible given that the water level becomes flush with the lowest branches or even covers them. Fishing tends to improve as the water rises (especially in warmer weather), as snook hiding out in the depths to wait out the low tide gradually move up into the protection and bait-holding surroundings of the natural structure.
When to plug-fish Like all fishing for snook with artificials, plug fishing is at its best in the early morning and early evening hours. Cooler temperatures and longer shadows generally result in more aggressive, less edgy fish. Some old time plug fishermen simply refuse to throw a lure once the sun gets up and the temperature warm, saying if they're starting to sweat and feel uncomfortable, the snook are, too. It's not 100% accurate but, like most advice that tumbles from the mouths of older anglers, it proves true far more often than not.
Even tiny snook will belt a well-presented plug. This one hit a 7M MirroLure. Classic plugs Many lures will catch snook along shorelines, including softbaits (Sluggos, DOAs, Charlie's Worms, etc.), jigs (Love's Lures, DOA TerrorEyz, Mr. Whiffle, etc.), swimming plugs (Bang-o-Lures, Rapalas, Yo-Zuris, etc.), sinking plugs (Catch 2000, Bagley's Finger Mullet, etc.) and topwaters (Top Dog, Jr and Top Dog Pup, Chug Bug, etc.). But this article is about throwing plugs, so I'll address some old stand-bys. Though personal preference makes for a wide variety of "favorite" plugs, three classics seem to be present in the tackle box of most diehard shoreline snookers: the MirroLure's 52M and 7M, and the venerable Zara Spook. The 52M MirroLure is a sinking plug designed to mimic any number of baitfish that are high on a snook's diet, including small mullet, thread herring and pilchards (whitebait). As any guide will tell you, whitebait are deadly on snook, and this lure can literally mirror the size and action of a fluttering live bait if used properly. It sinks slowly after it's cast out, and is best retrieved with periodic pauses interspersed by quick flicks of the rodtip. It is retrieved a few inches under the water's surface, and results in a high number of good hook-ups. The 7M MirroLure looks identical to the 52M in size and shape, but it floats. Making this lure come alive requires practice it must be worked with a continual flicking of the wrist/rodtip, so the nose of the lure "digs" slightly into the water, and the lure flicks and dances just under the water's surface. Used properly, it has no match as a bait imitator in my humble opinion. Snook love to smash this lure on top. The Heddon Zara Spook is a slightly larger, smoother lure that is roughly cigar-shaped, albeit with rounded nose and tail. It also floats atop the water, and is notable for making the "walk-the-dog" technique a well-known phrase among anglers. Walking the dog requires the angler to cast out the lure, let it settle, and then initiate a side-to-side retrieve by flicking the rod one moment, pausing a second or two, the flicking the rod tip again. The rhythmic, gliding action that results is maddening to big snook they really powder a Zara Spook when they hit it.
Suggested tackle The best rods for backwater casting are stout, six-and-a-half to seven foot fast action rods. I prefer a 6'6" (or even shorter) rod when using a baitcaster, and a 7-foot rod when using a spinning reel. A stiff, responsive tip and strong blank are very important, as snook that hit plugs next to structure will do their best to perform an immediate about-face and re-enter the maze of roots and branches. A stiff rod is your best weapon in trying to persuade them otherwise. Baitcasting reels offer a distinct advantage to the backwater angler, though they take time and patience to learn to use correctly. Baitcasting reels allow the angler to exert smooth pressure on the line as it flows off the reel, so they can exert more precise control over the flight, speed and placement of the lure. Seasoned baitcasters can perform modern day miracles once they get in a rhythm, laying plugs into some impossibly small openings. Spinning reels, however, are just fine for the job. In fact, I know a few anglers who can cast spinning tackle with incredible accuracy. Remember: there is no substitute for practice. Learning to cast plugs well is equivalent to hitting a gold ball or shooting a basketball. The more time you put into it, the better you'll get and the more fish you'll catch. As for line, it's really a personal preference. Lighter line allows for greater accuracy, but you'll pay the price if a big snook wallops your plug. Line in the 10-12 lb. class is ideal, though if you find an area with a lot of big snook willing to hit plugs, you should switch to an outfit with 14 to 17 lb. test.* And, (cue broken record) a three foot section of 2030 lb. leader line is an absolute necessity. It will save you many a lure, and help you land fish you'd swear were gone forever.
Tips on technique The best quality a backwater caster can possess is an aggressive streak. Now, that aggression's not going to do you much good if you are an inaccurate caster, but assuming you've mastered your tackle to the point that you can place fairly accurate casts, it's time to take some chances. (If not, take the hooks off an old plug and practice casting in your backyard, ignoring the catcalls of the neighbors). Casting backwater structure is literally a game of inches. Snook can push surprisingly far back into the mangroves, and the further back you can get your lure, the better your odds of a hook-up. Getting a lure "into their living room" can be accomplished in several ways. Some casters prefer to "lob" their lure and let it fall between spaces in the overhanging branches, while others prefer to fling their lures in an almost straight line at the target. Finally, more accomplished anglers have perfected a skipping technique much like skipping a stone which allows them to reach previously inaccessible spots. (This technique will be described in detail in an upcoming article). My advice: practice all three you'll encounter situations that demand each skill. Naturally, catching snook along shorelines requires either firm ground that is wader-friendly, or a boat. If you can find shorelines surrounded by good, hard ground, wade fishing can be especially productive. Stay a ways off the structure, and move as slowly and quietly as possible. If you'd prefer to fish out of a boat, again, remain off the shore as far as possible without struggling to place your casts. Cast ahead of the boat rather than perpendicular to it, and watch your partner on your backcast. As far as propulsion goes, you have two options: poling the boat or using a trolling motor. If you fish with a buddy often, poling is a great option. It's very quiet, gives the guy poling a great vantage point for sighting fish, and allows you to leave your casting deck uncluttered. However, if you'll be casting a lot of shoreline or fishing alone quite a bit, there is no substitute for a bow-mounted trolling motor. Set it on a slow speed, keep your distance and start peppering likely looking spots. If you hang a snook, slow down and cast each nook and cranny snook tend to gravitate toward certain areas of a shoreline, so work any place where you see or catch a fish more carefully.
So there you have it: the basic tackle, lures and techniques required to catch snook along backwater shorelines. Follow this advice, put in your time, and you'll soon be under the spell that has captivated generations of snook anglers. Good luck on the water.
*Right after you call me with directions to the spot. ;-)
upcoming articles... Skip Your Way to Snook Learn a technique that will help you reach fish on higher stages of the tide. (April 2002) Shoreline Flyrodding Nothing beats stalking and catching snook on a flyrod. (May 2002) The Right Skiff How to choose a flats skiff that's right for you. (June 2002) Shallow Water Sermon How to effectively stalk snook in skinny water. (July 2002)
archived articles... Terrific Topwater Tactics - Ten proven ways to get more out of your topwater plugs. (July, 2001) Sweet Summertime -The hottest months make for the hottest fishing. (August, 2001) Night-time is the Right Time - Stealthy snooking under moonlight. (September, 2001) The Hard facts on Softbaits - How to get the most out of these weedless wonders. (October, 2001) Dance a Little Jig - Don't overlook the most underrated lure in the sport. (November, 2001) Baitfishing Basics - Learn the ins and outs of using bait for snook. (December 2001) Fly by Night - Finding and catching snook after the sun goes down. (January, 2002) Out in the Cold How to find and catch snook when the barometer drops. (February, 2002) |
Tips for Getting Plugs Back Out Of Trees
If you fish shorelines, your lures especially plugs are going to end up in the branches. "Squirrel fishing" is an inevitable part of backwater bombing. But here are four tricks which can save you time and temper the inconvenience of snagged lures...
The "Flip" When your lure flies into structure and ends up swinging loosely from a branch, don't sweat it. Gently raise and lower your rod tip so that the lure swings back and forth slowly, then as the lure reaches the full extent of its swing toward you raise your rod tip quickly. If executed correctly, your lure will flip high into the air, over the branch and back into the water. And you're back in business.
The "Wiggle" When your line is wrapped loosely among several branches, try this trick: raise your rod tip slowly until you see the lure hanging down. Then, very gently wiggle and raise your rod tip, softly "hopping" your lure up between the branches. Do not apply a lot of pressure if you pull too hard, odds are that a hook will become embedded in a branch or leaf. A light touch is the key to success here. Once you've gotten your lure out of the maze of branches, you may need to use the "flip" technique to get it over the last obstacle.
The "Rip" The "muy macho" version of the three techniques, the "rip" is reserved for a seemingly lost cause. When your lure seems securely stuck in the branches, try raising your rod tip high, then in a quick, powerful motion punch the tip of your rod away from your body. The idea is to rip the hook out of the structure by force. A word of caution: always rip away and slightly down from your body, and once the lure comes free, turn in the opposite direction quickly. A lure coming out of a tree can move at frightening speed I've seen jig heads literally sink into the skin. Try this technique once or twice when you get hung up. If the lure won't come dislodged, go ahead and get it by hand. Beats wearing a plug for the rest of the day.
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